Put the final output as a TIFF file (non-lossy) with an editing profile like Prophoto. You will automatically correct the color of EVERY PIXEL of EVERY slide that you scanned. Now, when you scan a Fuji slide roll in RAW, use VueScan in batch processing mode to ASSIGN the Fuji compensation profile to EVERY ONE of your scans. By going through all the colors in the palette, you generate curves for R, G, and B for the response of YOUR scanner and computer to the reference IT8 slide. Your scanner may render this color as R25 G10 B6. You then have VueScan calibrate the scan based on the file associated with that slide. You then scan the slide on the LS5000, using VueScan, with RAW output. The maker of the IT8 slide will give you a file with all of the actual measured RGB values for each of the colors. On Fuji Astia, the color may be rendered (I'm guessing, not actual) For example, a certain red color could be R20 G0 B0. IT8 slides photograph color palettes with known RGB values. Please share what works for you! Any information is much appreciated! Has anyone got experience with ColorPos? I tried the trial version, but didn't see any film emulsions in the list like with ColorNeg, where there's basically any emulsion out there. I've used the trial with Portra and got ok/good results, but decided to stick with ImageMagick/Negfix because that was working for me too (and at that time didn't feel I could warrant the purchase of the software). Lastly, I've heard many great things about ColorPerfect's ColorNeg/ColorPos. However, that frame does look really good and I'd really like comparing Nikon Scan with Vuescan, but like this that won't work. I've tried everything but it just keeps only looking at the first frame. When I do a preview it eats the whole roll, spits it out again and then only shows me the very first frame. I tried using Nikon Scan (through a virtual Windows XP with VMWare I'm on Mac) but can't figure out the software. The TIFF-DNG just has a little more punch. Both different DNG files are very similar. The TIFF output files are very bland, lack contrast and (more often than not) give wonky colors. The plain (non-DNG) RAW file gives me the best result (I think), but it's VERY dark (due to Gamma 1.0, right?) about 2-2.5-3 stops of exposure and a bunch of highlight compensation (think -75) gives me good results with the most pleasing colors and best highlight retention. I've read up on the difference between the 4 different uncompressed outputs and while most of the information out on the web is lost to me, I've got a general of idea what each is. The JPEG output is pretty bad, especially in tricky lighting situations it gives bad results. I've done some tests in Vuescan with different outputs: JPEG, RAW, RAW-DNG, TIFF, TIFF-DNG. I was wondering what the best way is to go about scanning. I came home last month from a trip to Sri Lanka where I shot 15 rolls of Velvia 100 (unmounted). I 'hacked' the SA-21 film adapter to work as an SA-30, which is absolutely great! I used the little 'wire trick' no fancy soldering for me.Īnyway, I'm trying to figure out what the best workflow is in regards to sides (B/W and print film I'll figure out at a later stage). I recently got an LS-5000 as a means to get better scans than my Pakon can give me and to scan chromes.
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